I am perched on the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser bouncing along narrow farm tracks that wind up to the Afton Saddle at Walter Peak Station. Also crammed into this tiny space at the back of the “ute” (Antipodean for a farm or utility truck) are 22 boisterous sheep dogs, several shepherd’s sticks, a spare tyre and a collection of tools for cutting and mending wire fences. Growing up in Hong Kong, I thought I was used to feeling cramped. Evidently, it could have been worse….